I spent 5 days of Bolivian countryside where I felt so welcome being almost alone gingo in the area. We counted 5 in total with my new Bolivian friend with whom I stayed. I came back to La Paz on a long 18-hours long boiling to freezing bus.
Tuesday, 24/06. Bienvenido a La Paz
En la manana a las 10 volvi a La Paz. No me gusto La Paz en mi primera vez, no me gusta La Paz ahora tampoco. Pero tengo algo para hacer aqui y no tengo mucho tiempo antes mi viaje a Peru.
Estoy un poco trista, hay muchos lugares que me encantaria visitar en Bolivia, pero ya hace mas que un mes aqui y tengo que moderme adelante.
En Bolivia hay un problema: todol los hosteles son party hostels con parties hasta tarde (o temprano?) y mucho ruido. Despues de tranquiles y baratos hoteles del Oriente se parecen l infienrno para mi. Todos estes jovenes quien beben hasta manana y se quedan en el hostel todos los dias solo para hacer Death road and salir.
No hice mucho este dia: camine un poco intentando encontrar algun tour que voy a hacer en La Paz (une razon proque estoy en este ciudad fea ahora).
Wednesday, 25/06. Back to hostel life
Yesterday there was a party in the hostel until 2am! I could not believe I ended up in another party hostel! Well what did I expect from the hostel with its own brewery and wrist band that says 'lf I am lost or drunk plese return me to this address'?
After almost a months staying away from hostels and big travelling crowds, I felt awkward, how do I talk with them?
But today it was quieter, as usual I met some people from my travels, we played card games with two sets of cards (we were that many) having free beer. I am back to normal.
Thusrday, 26/06. Unravel La Paz
With a girl from the hostel we found unknown to us before La Paz that looks more like Europian/colonial town, which was surprising to see. In the evening I found Soropachi district full of expat restaurants, embassies and high buildings. Still La Paz for me is noisy, dirty, narrow city. Do not like it here, cannot wait to get out to the mountains.
Fancy district
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Museum street
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Friday-Sunday, 27-29/06. 6088 m
A reason I spent that much time in La Paz is to acclimatize to the altitude so I can climb Huyani Potosi, 6088 m mountain outside of La Paz.
I took 3 days tour to take it easy. There were supposed to be 3 people in total but a Swedish couple canceld as a girl was sick, so I ended up alone. I had a my own guide/cook for a whole day (next day a group of 6 people joined us to do 2 days tour).
First day - altitude 4500 m. I had 'ice walking/climbing' practice, which was awesome! I liked ice climbing more than rock climbing: no need to think where to step, just use crampons and ice axes to make your way up. Because of the altitude I felt out of breath all the time: even drinking tea!
There were another few groups from different agencies in the camp, so I even had a chance to speak some English.
We went to bed very early at 7pm, so at 10pm I woke up thinking it is morning, no it was not. After that I had all the fun of sleeping at the altitude: could not breath, had horrible headache and funny stomach. Swithing on and off between altitude thickness attacks, I tried to sleep until 7am. I think I managed to sleep half of the time. Talking with other people next morning, all of us had pretty much same night experience.
Climbing up
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The mountain
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Second day - altitude 5130m. Next morning we met with the rest of the group who were mostly expats and bolivians. There was one German doctor who lives in La paz for the last 27 years finding this place more tanquil (really???).
We were supposed to walk up 500m to the next camp, the walk took 2.5 hours and was quite ok: after entertaining night I felt surprisignly fine. All the way up bolivians were working on improving road conditions, we met a lot of old people and children literally running up this mountain and rolling heavy rocks, while some of us were out of breath.
Arriving at the camp at around 1pm I had free time until the next day. But there is noting to do! I have been eating all the time, although I lost my appetite, the guides were stuffing me with food. I felt like everything I did that day was eating.
I met though yet anouther person from Czech Republic who could speak Russian! So I spent that afternoon practicing my worsened Russian.
This was another early night, 6pm, but this time morning would start at midnight, so we could make it to the top by sunrise.
During the day I felt fine, but at night (if one can call night time from 6pm until midnight) it all came back: headache, shortened breath, and the wosrt of all stomachache. Headache can be tolerated, making frequent stops will help to restore breathing, but stomach problems troubled me the most: the last thing I wanted to do is to be sick at the altitude more than 5500m.
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Lunch time (all I was doing this day was eating)
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Third day - 6088m. Waking up at midnight was suprisingly easy, regardless of all the altitude symptoms, I did manage to sleep quite well. After breakfast and packing (I hope I did not foget my sunglasses!) We were off at 1.30 to concure 6088 m mountain Huyani Potosi.
Making small steps in crampons in the snow, following the guide to whom I am attached by rope in the dark, we slowle started climbing up. It is technically simple, but constant almost 1000 m climb that takes unexperienced climbers around 5 hours.
We were big group with 1 guide for 1-2 persons (I was glad I had my own!), for security we had to keep all together.
The climb was interesting. At a time I felt fine going up, did not feel tired and was sad when we stopped for the break as I had a good walking pace. At a time I was just dying: all I could see was a white spot of snow in the light of my head torch, all I could hear was my heavy breath, when I thought I was ready to faint we usually had a break. Because of my stomach problems I could not eat, so guides called 'complicated mujer'.
The higher we walked, the more difficult it became, especialy when we had to walk over voids in the snow: one is supposed to walk over them quicker, it meant that I would loose my pace and end up out of breath again, and beacuse of the altitude I would stay out of breath until we stop, there is no was to restore normal breathing while walking.
In one place we had to 'climb' as it was too steep, there was a rope were attached to snow. Last 100 m was constant steep climb, we have made stops every few meters, I was done, but I could see the top, so I kept going and going and going. Sometimes my guide had to pull the rope to make me walk when I stopped to breath a bit. After about 5800 m my headache came back.
We made it to the top for sunrise and it was beautiful and reqarding and made my so so so happy and almost proud of myself. We saw light of La Paz, lake Titicaca, Cordillera range and the most beautiful sunrise. Because the most beautiful sunrises are in the montains. It was too cold to stay on the topfor a long time so we started our descend soon.
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F*ck yeah!
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Lake Titicaca
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I was happy and smiled like an idiot all the way down, I was so grateful that Swedish couple could not make it and I had my own guide (who was very motivating, although tried to call me mujer all the time: had to remind him that I have a name).
It was fantastic, beautiful, challenging experience, I am afraid I got addicted to it now and already had a look what mountains I can climb in Peru. It was my first mountain and it was 6088 m. Extreme happiness. Even now when I write about it, I smile.
It was not the hardest thing I have done in my life either: if not altitude sickness, it would be quite a moderate walk. But that what it is in the mountains: it is altitude that makes a different, isn't it?
In 3 days I did ice climbing, trekking, ice walking and I reached the highest point in my journey so far. I am so glad my work sucked that much that I decided to go for this trip. Viva SLB!
Tuesday, 24/06. Bienvenido a La Paz
En la manana a las 10 volvi a La Paz. No me gusto La Paz en mi primera vez, no me gusta La Paz ahora tampoco. Pero tengo algo para hacer aqui y no tengo mucho tiempo antes mi viaje a Peru.
Estoy un poco trista, hay muchos lugares que me encantaria visitar en Bolivia, pero ya hace mas que un mes aqui y tengo que moderme adelante.
En Bolivia hay un problema: todol los hosteles son party hostels con parties hasta tarde (o temprano?) y mucho ruido. Despues de tranquiles y baratos hoteles del Oriente se parecen l infienrno para mi. Todos estes jovenes quien beben hasta manana y se quedan en el hostel todos los dias solo para hacer Death road and salir.
No hice mucho este dia: camine un poco intentando encontrar algun tour que voy a hacer en La Paz (une razon proque estoy en este ciudad fea ahora).
Wednesday, 25/06. Back to hostel life
Yesterday there was a party in the hostel until 2am! I could not believe I ended up in another party hostel! Well what did I expect from the hostel with its own brewery and wrist band that says 'lf I am lost or drunk plese return me to this address'?
After almost a months staying away from hostels and big travelling crowds, I felt awkward, how do I talk with them?
But today it was quieter, as usual I met some people from my travels, we played card games with two sets of cards (we were that many) having free beer. I am back to normal.
Thusrday, 26/06. Unravel La Paz
With a girl from the hostel we found unknown to us before La Paz that looks more like Europian/colonial town, which was surprising to see. In the evening I found Soropachi district full of expat restaurants, embassies and high buildings. Still La Paz for me is noisy, dirty, narrow city. Do not like it here, cannot wait to get out to the mountains.
Fancy district
Museum street
Friday-Sunday, 27-29/06. 6088 m
A reason I spent that much time in La Paz is to acclimatize to the altitude so I can climb Huyani Potosi, 6088 m mountain outside of La Paz.
I took 3 days tour to take it easy. There were supposed to be 3 people in total but a Swedish couple canceld as a girl was sick, so I ended up alone. I had a my own guide/cook for a whole day (next day a group of 6 people joined us to do 2 days tour).
First day - altitude 4500 m. I had 'ice walking/climbing' practice, which was awesome! I liked ice climbing more than rock climbing: no need to think where to step, just use crampons and ice axes to make your way up. Because of the altitude I felt out of breath all the time: even drinking tea!
There were another few groups from different agencies in the camp, so I even had a chance to speak some English.
We went to bed very early at 7pm, so at 10pm I woke up thinking it is morning, no it was not. After that I had all the fun of sleeping at the altitude: could not breath, had horrible headache and funny stomach. Swithing on and off between altitude thickness attacks, I tried to sleep until 7am. I think I managed to sleep half of the time. Talking with other people next morning, all of us had pretty much same night experience.
Climbing up
The mountain
Second day - altitude 5130m. Next morning we met with the rest of the group who were mostly expats and bolivians. There was one German doctor who lives in La paz for the last 27 years finding this place more tanquil (really???).
We were supposed to walk up 500m to the next camp, the walk took 2.5 hours and was quite ok: after entertaining night I felt surprisignly fine. All the way up bolivians were working on improving road conditions, we met a lot of old people and children literally running up this mountain and rolling heavy rocks, while some of us were out of breath.
Arriving at the camp at around 1pm I had free time until the next day. But there is noting to do! I have been eating all the time, although I lost my appetite, the guides were stuffing me with food. I felt like everything I did that day was eating.
I met though yet anouther person from Czech Republic who could speak Russian! So I spent that afternoon practicing my worsened Russian.
This was another early night, 6pm, but this time morning would start at midnight, so we could make it to the top by sunrise.
During the day I felt fine, but at night (if one can call night time from 6pm until midnight) it all came back: headache, shortened breath, and the wosrt of all stomachache. Headache can be tolerated, making frequent stops will help to restore breathing, but stomach problems troubled me the most: the last thing I wanted to do is to be sick at the altitude more than 5500m.
Lunch time (all I was doing this day was eating)
Making small steps in crampons in the snow, following the guide to whom I am attached by rope in the dark, we slowle started climbing up. It is technically simple, but constant almost 1000 m climb that takes unexperienced climbers around 5 hours.
We were big group with 1 guide for 1-2 persons (I was glad I had my own!), for security we had to keep all together.
The climb was interesting. At a time I felt fine going up, did not feel tired and was sad when we stopped for the break as I had a good walking pace. At a time I was just dying: all I could see was a white spot of snow in the light of my head torch, all I could hear was my heavy breath, when I thought I was ready to faint we usually had a break. Because of my stomach problems I could not eat, so guides called 'complicated mujer'.
The higher we walked, the more difficult it became, especialy when we had to walk over voids in the snow: one is supposed to walk over them quicker, it meant that I would loose my pace and end up out of breath again, and beacuse of the altitude I would stay out of breath until we stop, there is no was to restore normal breathing while walking.
In one place we had to 'climb' as it was too steep, there was a rope were attached to snow. Last 100 m was constant steep climb, we have made stops every few meters, I was done, but I could see the top, so I kept going and going and going. Sometimes my guide had to pull the rope to make me walk when I stopped to breath a bit. After about 5800 m my headache came back.
We made it to the top for sunrise and it was beautiful and reqarding and made my so so so happy and almost proud of myself. We saw light of La Paz, lake Titicaca, Cordillera range and the most beautiful sunrise. Because the most beautiful sunrises are in the montains. It was too cold to stay on the topfor a long time so we started our descend soon.
F*ck yeah!
Lake Titicaca
I was happy and smiled like an idiot all the way down, I was so grateful that Swedish couple could not make it and I had my own guide (who was very motivating, although tried to call me mujer all the time: had to remind him that I have a name).
It was fantastic, beautiful, challenging experience, I am afraid I got addicted to it now and already had a look what mountains I can climb in Peru. It was my first mountain and it was 6088 m. Extreme happiness. Even now when I write about it, I smile.
It was not the hardest thing I have done in my life either: if not altitude sickness, it would be quite a moderate walk. But that what it is in the mountains: it is altitude that makes a different, isn't it?
In 3 days I did ice climbing, trekking, ice walking and I reached the highest point in my journey so far. I am so glad my work sucked that much that I decided to go for this trip. Viva SLB!
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