Oooooh, I am soooo behind with this journal. The thing is most of those weeks I did not have internet, so I have an excuse. I will do one post to quickly describe what was happening.
Monday, 31/07. Death Road not happening
Coming back from the trek on Sunfay, I booked Death Road mountain biking for the next day in the only open agency, but in the morning I had a call to inform that the tour was cancelled, so I had no plans for Monday and had to stay another day to do the trip.
Good thing today? Well, I got a discount for the tour. Hell, yeah!
Tuesday, 01/07. Death Road happening
So Death Road trip is 60km down hill on paved road for an hour or so and then another who-knows-how-many-km on the narrow unpaved road full of stones.
First part was fun, but seemed slow. 62.9km/hr was max I went to on my bike.
Second part was, well, shaky with all these huge stones on the road. And tiring. Very. The scenery was absolutely fantastic: coming from Andean highlands (4400 m) to Jungle (1200 m), from freezing cold to warm humudity of rain forest. So absolutely beautiful. I cannot believe one can go on the bike in one day and see such a dramatic change in landscape. Unbelievable.
I did not have my camera as guides were making photos, but I did not have time to collect them, will try get them emailed, but for now you just have to believe me that Bolivia is the most beautiful and diverse and culturally rich country I visited so far.
Wednesday, 02/07. On the way to Peru
It is time to leave my beautiful Bolivia. I am going to Peru, to Puerto Maldonado for jungle living. So the plan for today is to catch bus to Cusco at 8.30 am and then change there for Puerto at around 9pm, if I am lucky enough and the bus not delayed.
Crossing the border was fun as usual: I suddenly had this thought: I have no Peruvian money, no accommodation, I do not even know where I am going to sleep tonight. And I need to give an address for my migration card. Good I have Cusco maps with some addresses.
Got my 90 days alright.
We arrived to Cusco at 9.20pm, I had 36 soles that I got on the border for my unused Bolivianos. There was a bus for Puerto Maldonado ready to leave. It was a miracle that I was able to catch it. It was scheduled to leave at 9pm. I only bought my ticket half an hour later! Sometimes South-American punctuality is a bless. I am heading to the Jungles!
Thursday, 03/07. Day dreaming in Puerto Maldonado
Finally after over 24 hours travel I arrived to PM!
So far Peru looks very different to me: markets are very poor in terms of food options, but they have fancy shops around. People - how shall I put this? - less fit then in Bolivia. But still short.
PM has coconut and papaya palms and cool wall murals.
Mototaxi from inside
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Friday, 04/07-Thursday, 10/07. Jungle living
Я провела неделю в джунглях, в доме на дереве под москитной сеткой.
Честно говоря, москитов там было меньше, чем у нас на даче вечером. Зато там были огромные кузнечики, пауки и другие неопознанные насекомые, обезьяны, птицы, названия которых я уже и по-испански не помню.
Место, в котором мы жили с 2мя парами из Австралии, мальчиком из Сиднея и девушкой из Штатов, - экологический центр, цель которого помочь сохранить джунгли и предотвратить вырубку леса под поля для коров. Директор центра - русская девушка, которая переехала в Перу 5 лет назад. Очень странно было разговаривать по-русски ТАК далеко от всякой цивилизации. Мой русский настолько дубовый! Настолько сложно разговаривать и особенно писать на нем: в голове все чаще всплывают английские фразы, которые я просто не могу перевести на культурный русский язык! Почитать что ли Достоевского?..
Что еще можно сказать? Ели мы исключительно вегетарианские блюда. По-моему, я превращаюсь в вегетарианца: прошло уже несколько дней с тех пор, как мы вернулись, я все еще не ем мясо. Вы когда-нибудь пробовали жареную картошку на кокосовом масле? А борщ с тыквой и киноа?
My home for a week
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Friday, 11/07. Back to reality
How hard it was to come back from tranquility of the jungle to busting and loud, full of cars Puerto Maldonado. It was public holiday in town, so all people was out there. Terrifying!
After quite limited (but good) food in the jungle, we went to celebrate to restaurant. Could not move further than salad bar, but left the place happy, full and satisfied.
Going to Cusco tonight! Excited!
Peruvian Banksy
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Saturday, 12/07. Cusco-city
Cusco is soooooooo soooooo touristy. O.M.G! It is the most touristy place I have ever seen.
If you look like gringo, you will be offered
1. Machu Picchu tour
2. Massage
3. Aquarel paintings
4. Artesanal goodies
On the streets every second. 'No, gracias' is a phrase of the day.
The city is beautiful though surrounded by montains and with stunning churches on the main plaza.
Peru is about twice more expensive tnen Bolivia, still cheap, however.
I am here with some people from my Jungle adventure, the american girl was living here for 3 months, so she shows us all the places to eat around. Some of this food is gastronomical orgasm. I cannot believe food can taste like it. Cronut, for example (croissant+doughnut), or vegan food in Green Point restaurant, or baked banana. Best. Food. Ever. If Cusco has something it is its restaurants and cafes. Fantastic. I will gain here everyhting I lost in the jungle.
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Cusco daily parades
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Sunday, 13/07. In the Sacred Valley with kindergaden
Sunday is a market day in a little village Pisaq is the Sacred Valley, so Alden brought us there to buy colourful and mostly useless woven sweaters, bags, skarfs, etc and watch World Cup finals.
For the last few days I am with these two: Alden, 23, from US, and Alex, 21, from Australia. They are fun and excitable: everything is 'so good', so exciting for them. They seem to themselves so smart talking about 'serious and important' subjects. I really like them, I guess I was the same at their age.
They both had tough life: Alden had brain tumor removed a couple of years ago and it put her down for sometime.
Alex is working since he was 17yo in bars and casinos, no farther, drugs, sex and rock&roll. He will study councelling soon.
I am going trekking tomorrow, Alden is flying home in a couple of days and Alex heads to the coast (too cold for poor baby). I am going to miss them.
Btw, I bought a little bag and met Russian couple here!
Andean cossack Alex
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'Go Germany'-all Russians here support them in Pisaq
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Monday, 31/07. Death Road not happening
Coming back from the trek on Sunfay, I booked Death Road mountain biking for the next day in the only open agency, but in the morning I had a call to inform that the tour was cancelled, so I had no plans for Monday and had to stay another day to do the trip.
Good thing today? Well, I got a discount for the tour. Hell, yeah!
Tuesday, 01/07. Death Road happening
So Death Road trip is 60km down hill on paved road for an hour or so and then another who-knows-how-many-km on the narrow unpaved road full of stones.
First part was fun, but seemed slow. 62.9km/hr was max I went to on my bike.
Second part was, well, shaky with all these huge stones on the road. And tiring. Very. The scenery was absolutely fantastic: coming from Andean highlands (4400 m) to Jungle (1200 m), from freezing cold to warm humudity of rain forest. So absolutely beautiful. I cannot believe one can go on the bike in one day and see such a dramatic change in landscape. Unbelievable.
I did not have my camera as guides were making photos, but I did not have time to collect them, will try get them emailed, but for now you just have to believe me that Bolivia is the most beautiful and diverse and culturally rich country I visited so far.
Wednesday, 02/07. On the way to Peru
It is time to leave my beautiful Bolivia. I am going to Peru, to Puerto Maldonado for jungle living. So the plan for today is to catch bus to Cusco at 8.30 am and then change there for Puerto at around 9pm, if I am lucky enough and the bus not delayed.
Crossing the border was fun as usual: I suddenly had this thought: I have no Peruvian money, no accommodation, I do not even know where I am going to sleep tonight. And I need to give an address for my migration card. Good I have Cusco maps with some addresses.
Got my 90 days alright.
We arrived to Cusco at 9.20pm, I had 36 soles that I got on the border for my unused Bolivianos. There was a bus for Puerto Maldonado ready to leave. It was a miracle that I was able to catch it. It was scheduled to leave at 9pm. I only bought my ticket half an hour later! Sometimes South-American punctuality is a bless. I am heading to the Jungles!
Thursday, 03/07. Day dreaming in Puerto Maldonado
Finally after over 24 hours travel I arrived to PM!
So far Peru looks very different to me: markets are very poor in terms of food options, but they have fancy shops around. People - how shall I put this? - less fit then in Bolivia. But still short.
PM has coconut and papaya palms and cool wall murals.
Mototaxi from inside
Friday, 04/07-Thursday, 10/07. Jungle living
Я провела неделю в джунглях, в доме на дереве под москитной сеткой.
Честно говоря, москитов там было меньше, чем у нас на даче вечером. Зато там были огромные кузнечики, пауки и другие неопознанные насекомые, обезьяны, птицы, названия которых я уже и по-испански не помню.
Место, в котором мы жили с 2мя парами из Австралии, мальчиком из Сиднея и девушкой из Штатов, - экологический центр, цель которого помочь сохранить джунгли и предотвратить вырубку леса под поля для коров. Директор центра - русская девушка, которая переехала в Перу 5 лет назад. Очень странно было разговаривать по-русски ТАК далеко от всякой цивилизации. Мой русский настолько дубовый! Настолько сложно разговаривать и особенно писать на нем: в голове все чаще всплывают английские фразы, которые я просто не могу перевести на культурный русский язык! Почитать что ли Достоевского?..
Что еще можно сказать? Ели мы исключительно вегетарианские блюда. По-моему, я превращаюсь в вегетарианца: прошло уже несколько дней с тех пор, как мы вернулись, я все еще не ем мясо. Вы когда-нибудь пробовали жареную картошку на кокосовом масле? А борщ с тыквой и киноа?
My home for a week
Friday, 11/07. Back to reality
How hard it was to come back from tranquility of the jungle to busting and loud, full of cars Puerto Maldonado. It was public holiday in town, so all people was out there. Terrifying!
After quite limited (but good) food in the jungle, we went to celebrate to restaurant. Could not move further than salad bar, but left the place happy, full and satisfied.
Going to Cusco tonight! Excited!
Peruvian Banksy
Saturday, 12/07. Cusco-city
Cusco is soooooooo soooooo touristy. O.M.G! It is the most touristy place I have ever seen.
If you look like gringo, you will be offered
1. Machu Picchu tour
2. Massage
3. Aquarel paintings
4. Artesanal goodies
On the streets every second. 'No, gracias' is a phrase of the day.
The city is beautiful though surrounded by montains and with stunning churches on the main plaza.
Peru is about twice more expensive tnen Bolivia, still cheap, however.
I am here with some people from my Jungle adventure, the american girl was living here for 3 months, so she shows us all the places to eat around. Some of this food is gastronomical orgasm. I cannot believe food can taste like it. Cronut, for example (croissant+doughnut), or vegan food in Green Point restaurant, or baked banana. Best. Food. Ever. If Cusco has something it is its restaurants and cafes. Fantastic. I will gain here everyhting I lost in the jungle.
Cusco daily parades
Sunday, 13/07. In the Sacred Valley with kindergaden
Sunday is a market day in a little village Pisaq is the Sacred Valley, so Alden brought us there to buy colourful and mostly useless woven sweaters, bags, skarfs, etc and watch World Cup finals.
For the last few days I am with these two: Alden, 23, from US, and Alex, 21, from Australia. They are fun and excitable: everything is 'so good', so exciting for them. They seem to themselves so smart talking about 'serious and important' subjects. I really like them, I guess I was the same at their age.
They both had tough life: Alden had brain tumor removed a couple of years ago and it put her down for sometime.
Alex is working since he was 17yo in bars and casinos, no farther, drugs, sex and rock&roll. He will study councelling soon.
I am going trekking tomorrow, Alden is flying home in a couple of days and Alex heads to the coast (too cold for poor baby). I am going to miss them.
Btw, I bought a little bag and met Russian couple here!
Andean cossack Alex
'Go Germany'-all Russians here support them in Pisaq
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