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Monday, 3 February 2014

Week 1. Buenos Aires. Expanish school

It has been a week since I am in Buenos Aires, time for update.
Buenos Aires is wonderful beautiful magical place. Everything I wrote before is not true, let's say I was jetlagged.


My host is ok. First shock has gone, I am staying here. They are very interesting people, he is a musician, she is a photographer. This is an old house and it gives it some sort of a charm (ish). Got used to the dog, had to push it out of bathroom every morning. I know all the dog owners of barrio. 


Area is fine, 30 mins to the school by subte (metro), already know where my station is without looking and what exit I need. Feel myself real porteno.
I came so unprepared here, I did not even check if my phone would work in Argentina (well, it does not). Here I do not really have time to check internet/guide books for my plans, so I just go with the flow. Found out a lot from people and have approximate plan until 25th Feb. Having no plan, having no time to visit main attractions on the first week does not bother me much, I have another 2 weeks and enough time to do everything I will plan to do.
Everything excites me. Changing money on blue market? Exciting! Eating in suspicious chinese buffets? Exciting! Having TD? Yes! I am a real traveller now. Since I ended up in Wales every substandard situation makes me think fast and is exciting (see how excited I am?). I thought only particular type of people like being under stress, I never thought of myself as 'particular'. I met the girl who like me left her job and went around the world. She says that she found out a lot about herself. Time for me to do the same. Exciting!




Here's what happened this week.


Monday 27/01. Expanish and Chinese buffet.
Speaking ONLY Spanish for 4 hours in the morning? My brain hurts. But I am pleased, I can understand people (when they repeat 5 times, but well). Local accent is different and takes me time to translate to Spanish I know. I am happy I could get to this level in 3 months, need to push mysef to speak more now. We are 6 in the group, I am the only Russian in the whole school! Many people say that I am first Russian they meet. Feel very special and trying to behave to leave a good picture of my country (sort of).
Went for lunch to Chinese buffet with my schoolmates. 26 pesos for lunch? Happiness! Even hamburger costs 22 pesos. I do not care if I got TD, I will be coming back. Result: 70 pesos (around 5$ blue market price) for a day. More money for my Antarctica trip.

Tuesday 28/01. Tango class.
Tango is like driving dodgems (without breaking phones). You always bump into other couples, especially if all are beginners. I enjoyed it a lot (not bumping, but tango). Dancing with someone who actually knows how to dance is amazing. You do not think, just follow (applies only to girls), listen to the music and enjoy, man leads, think of the next move, avoids other couples. Makes it very complicated for him. I cannot follow, I actually quite liked to be a 'man', what a failure. I am definitely coming back.


Wednesday 29/01. The Americans.
2 cousins, she is a yoga teacher, he is in my class and read Dostoevsky (do I spell it right? BTW, there might be mistakes in grammar and spelling, cannot be bothered to double check, so I apologize in advance). Nice and intelligent people, caused cognitive dissonance.Brought us to burrito place and MALBA in Palermo. I have seen original painting of Frida Kahlo and other very famous latinamerican painters that I don't know.


Thursday 30/01. Las Madres de La Plaza de Mayo.
They organize weekly manifestations on La Plaza de Mayo. Not that many people, Quite a few young faces, anarchists, tourists. They walk around the monument on La Plaza twice and people behind them sing songs and apload, then one of the mothers made a speech about mafia, government and supermarkets (this is as much as I could understand).
History of Argentina is tragic, very similar to Russian (Soviet) history of 1930-1940s. The difference is these events took place in 1970-1980s and all world knew what was happening and just closed the eyes. It makes it much more terrifying and much more dramatic (well for me) comparing to USSR. Because it is so recent, there are a lot of people who lived through this. My host's father was shot at while he was driving (he was not hurt).
Las Madres are an example of great courage and strength of women who lost their children. Going to La Plaza, they knew that they can be killed and disappear into the ocean like thousand of others, but they kept going and going to La Plaza to find their answers.


Friday 31/01. La Boca and Intercambio de Idiomas
I heard/read a lot that La Boca is a dangerous place to go: once you are out of touristic area, you can be robbed, mugged, etc. I was not sure if I could go there on my own. Going there by taxi is fine (taxi is very cheap here, like Tube in London), but coming back by colectivo (bus) did not sound like a good idea. So when school organized guided tour there, I was the first to sign up. And I don't regret. Only two touristic streets with tango dancers and artists surrounded by very poor area. The touristic part is nice and is as I imagined, although looks a bit artificial. Houses are made of forged steel. REALLY hot inside (it was also very warm day), cannot imagine how people lived (and still do) in such houses.
La Boca is worth visiting, but if you are in BA, take a tour that drops you there, not worth spending more than 20 minutes in the area.


In the evening went to Palermo (sort of centre of night life in BA) for Language Exchange event. Similar to Russian meetings in London. Lots of people from all over the world talking in different languages, just join any of the group and enjoy, Met Russians who moved there 13 years ago. Horray! I can speak Russian finally! I was afraid I was going to forget my language here.
Palermo at night is even more lively than during the day. Argentinians have dinner at 9-11pm (my host amazes me every night, when she starts cooking at 10pm), so I was not surprised to see people eating at midnight. Plenty of kids in the streets as well (at midnight!). I live very close to the place, so will be visiting more. Besides, one of the guys from Exchange offered to show me 'best bars in Buenos Aires', looking forward to it. Sort of.


My time in Expanish school is over, next week I am going to another school. My new school is smaller and the classes are in the afternoon, this gives me time to visit the city in the mornings. I am glad I chose Expanish to start with as it is bigger and more social, good for the start. I have contacts of my old/new classmates and will see them again around. Now it is time to take my Spanish more serious (in the new school classes are smaller).

About photos. I try to make as many useless photos as possible, but I don't like making them. Feels like I cannot see real world behind this camera. I prefer to walk without it, so there might be not that many photos, and certanly they will not be impressive.
I also forgot my camera on the couple of occasions, so waiting for photos from other people. Will update this post when I got them. The rest of the photos are in Picasa. For now it is open access, will need to figure how I can restrict it.
Thank you for your comments, I did not expect to be commented.
Question. Peruvian guy from the place where I change money (yes, Florida street, Cambio, Cambio, criminal types) invited me for cerveza. Shall I go or is it way too adventurous?

3 comments:

  1. Masha, A great summary of your first week! Lots of fun and experiences to pack in. 25C is great weather. I guess it can only get better.
    I don't think you should go with the money changing guy - way too adventurous :-)
    Enjoy!

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  2. Thanks for the weekly update :-) hope you wont forget 'us' with time and forgot to giove news ! How is the afternoon class then ? getting use to their accent ? have fun !

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  3. i can see that you're a good story teller (unlike me), it's so pleasant to read about your new joys and "excitements"))
    on the only picture where you are in presence you look like a chinese tourist =)))) lol (Ira)

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