Tuesday, 18/03. Puerto Natales
We came back from the trek on Monday, saw lotls of guanacos (southern version of lamas with long eye lashes) on the way when were not sleeping. Interestingly, have not met a lot of wild life in the park, just another campers going in both direcions. We actually were walking as a huge group with other people who started W-circuit at the same point as us. Now we keep meeting these people in town, feels like we know everyone around!
As you can guess, this was day off after exciting 5 days, so we just walked in Puerto Natales, made laundry (no more smelly cloth!), shopping, organized backpack back to its backpacker state, had crepes and coffee with local specialities.
Puerto Natales is nice place with one-storey buildings and a lot of English food (Waitrose, Whittard of Chelsea... - see FB updates) and tea salons.
Chilenos speak fast non-understandable Spanish and too wide.
Heading back to Argentina tomorrow.
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Wednesday, 19/3. Chocolate Heaven
We have moved back to Argentina. I love it here so much: I can understand what people are saying.
We are in El Calafate to see Glacier.
But first El Calafate. O.M.G.! Chcolate! I am in heaven!
The place itself is very cozy, laid back and hippie. They do not use plastic bags and very enviromentally aware in general.
And Chocolate! I might stay here forever.
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Thursday, 20/3. Crazy blue
Today is a sightseeing day. We are going to th National Park to the the largest and the most active Glacier in the world.
The weather is fine, not too sunny, not too cloudy and we can see maybe 1/3 of ice surface (the thing is huge!).
It is blue. How is it possible? I do not understand. And it is very close to view points. Unbelievably crazy blue.
Check this out. Cooool.
We have seen some small pieces falling, made incredible loud thunder-like noise.
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Friday, 21/3. El Chalten
El Chalten is a small village 200 km from El Calafate, 'trekking capital of Argentina', the only settlement situated in the National Park. The place is younger than I (founded in Oct 1985) and has nothing, but trekking agencies, shops and restaurants for hikers, amazing views of mountain Fitz Roy, glaciers, no phone reception and only satellite internet that does not work. 4 days away of civilization.
All people here came from BA or Rosario and many of them leave when off season.
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Saturday, 22/3. Rainy day in Patagonia
While doing marketing research of the agencies yesterday, I found out that Saturday will be 'muy feo', rainy and windy, so we did not plan much actvities.
As I woke up early as usual, I went for a short hike out of village to enjoy sunrise colours before the rain, and after quick breakfast another shoty hike to the waterfalls. When we were coming back the rain started. And continued all day. With no internet and nothing much to do (restaurants are expensive, supermarkets open and close as they like as there is nothing to sell: availability depends on delivery from El Calafate), I slept, watched movies, tried to read (unsuccessfully) and chatted with other people who stayed in the hostel.
El Chalten is the most cooking place in the whole Argentina. As eating out is expensive, people buy and bring food with them from El Calafate. So kitchen wa busy.
Emily and I shared our supplies and had quite a varied diet during our stay: lentils with meat, pasta with meat, vegetable-lentils soup, more pasta. I have not eaten that much since I arrived here! And I had eggs for breakfast! I did not realize how much I miss it.
All in all wonderful quiet day in.
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Sunday, 23/3. Hiking Fitz Roy
As agencies did not lie yesterday, we expected them being right today as well. They promised nice sunny day and the morning seemed to be that way. So we went out for a hike to Fitz Roy mountain and Lago close to it.
We is Emily, her friend Liz who she met in Ushuaia and again in El Calafate and I. Raphaelle and Paul left for 3 days trek (btw, Raphaelle was HR is SLB as I found out and Paul working as land surveyor for oil rig constructions also had some experience with SLB, what a small world!).
Again, Patagonia is way too beautiful to put it in words, just look at the photos.
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Monday, 24/3. More hiking in El Chalten
Again good weather and another hike to another mountain. This is so different from Torres del Paine and still so similar!
It is also nice to come back to hostel after day hike and relax in front of the fire (an TV with old school music videos).
In total we have made around 50 km in 2 days and were exhausted at the end so much, that we did not even finish the trail (what is there? Another glacier? Euh, we can see its part from here - this is good enough). Instead we came back to the village for some ice cream with calafate berries.
At night I had a bus to Perito Moreno, la ciudad.
![]()
We came back from the trek on Monday, saw lotls of guanacos (southern version of lamas with long eye lashes) on the way when were not sleeping. Interestingly, have not met a lot of wild life in the park, just another campers going in both direcions. We actually were walking as a huge group with other people who started W-circuit at the same point as us. Now we keep meeting these people in town, feels like we know everyone around!
As you can guess, this was day off after exciting 5 days, so we just walked in Puerto Natales, made laundry (no more smelly cloth!), shopping, organized backpack back to its backpacker state, had crepes and coffee with local specialities.
Puerto Natales is nice place with one-storey buildings and a lot of English food (Waitrose, Whittard of Chelsea... - see FB updates) and tea salons.
Chilenos speak fast non-understandable Spanish and too wide.
Heading back to Argentina tomorrow.
Wednesday, 19/3. Chocolate Heaven
We have moved back to Argentina. I love it here so much: I can understand what people are saying.
We are in El Calafate to see Glacier.
But first El Calafate. O.M.G.! Chcolate! I am in heaven!
The place itself is very cozy, laid back and hippie. They do not use plastic bags and very enviromentally aware in general.
And Chocolate! I might stay here forever.
Thursday, 20/3. Crazy blue
Today is a sightseeing day. We are going to th National Park to the the largest and the most active Glacier in the world.
The weather is fine, not too sunny, not too cloudy and we can see maybe 1/3 of ice surface (the thing is huge!).
It is blue. How is it possible? I do not understand. And it is very close to view points. Unbelievably crazy blue.
Check this out. Cooool.
We have seen some small pieces falling, made incredible loud thunder-like noise.
Friday, 21/3. El Chalten
El Chalten is a small village 200 km from El Calafate, 'trekking capital of Argentina', the only settlement situated in the National Park. The place is younger than I (founded in Oct 1985) and has nothing, but trekking agencies, shops and restaurants for hikers, amazing views of mountain Fitz Roy, glaciers, no phone reception and only satellite internet that does not work. 4 days away of civilization.
All people here came from BA or Rosario and many of them leave when off season.
Saturday, 22/3. Rainy day in Patagonia
While doing marketing research of the agencies yesterday, I found out that Saturday will be 'muy feo', rainy and windy, so we did not plan much actvities.
As I woke up early as usual, I went for a short hike out of village to enjoy sunrise colours before the rain, and after quick breakfast another shoty hike to the waterfalls. When we were coming back the rain started. And continued all day. With no internet and nothing much to do (restaurants are expensive, supermarkets open and close as they like as there is nothing to sell: availability depends on delivery from El Calafate), I slept, watched movies, tried to read (unsuccessfully) and chatted with other people who stayed in the hostel.
El Chalten is the most cooking place in the whole Argentina. As eating out is expensive, people buy and bring food with them from El Calafate. So kitchen wa busy.
Emily and I shared our supplies and had quite a varied diet during our stay: lentils with meat, pasta with meat, vegetable-lentils soup, more pasta. I have not eaten that much since I arrived here! And I had eggs for breakfast! I did not realize how much I miss it.
All in all wonderful quiet day in.
Sunday, 23/3. Hiking Fitz Roy
As agencies did not lie yesterday, we expected them being right today as well. They promised nice sunny day and the morning seemed to be that way. So we went out for a hike to Fitz Roy mountain and Lago close to it.
We is Emily, her friend Liz who she met in Ushuaia and again in El Calafate and I. Raphaelle and Paul left for 3 days trek (btw, Raphaelle was HR is SLB as I found out and Paul working as land surveyor for oil rig constructions also had some experience with SLB, what a small world!).
Again, Patagonia is way too beautiful to put it in words, just look at the photos.
Monday, 24/3. More hiking in El Chalten
Again good weather and another hike to another mountain. This is so different from Torres del Paine and still so similar!
It is also nice to come back to hostel after day hike and relax in front of the fire (an TV with old school music videos).
In total we have made around 50 km in 2 days and were exhausted at the end so much, that we did not even finish the trail (what is there? Another glacier? Euh, we can see its part from here - this is good enough). Instead we came back to the village for some ice cream with calafate berries.
At night I had a bus to Perito Moreno, la ciudad.
from here the best seems to be the glacier ... looks amazing !
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