Week 9. Crossing Patagonia (Yes, Still There - It Is Huge!)

I am slowly going North in Patagonia, and it is getting warmer and warmer, but the landscape does no change: steppe, and steppe again.



Tuesday 25/3. La cueva de los manos

I finally left El Chalten yesterday night and arrived to Perito Moreno, la ciudad, in the morning. This was supposed to be connecting point to cross Argentina to its East coast. The place is very sad, but its main point of interest, La cueva do los manos, attracts visitors from all over the world (and lucky Argentines on cars - so they can bypass la ciudad).
I was not sure how to reach the place: the guidebook gives very vague description of public transport (?) and private tours. I was lucky enough: another 4 clueless tourists arrived with the same bus as I, so the tour was organized for us five to the cave.
I do not believe these paintings were done 20,000 years ago, so well preserved and 'modern art' they look.
Area around is (should I even say that?) breathtaking: it is still Patagonia, it is recognizable, but at the same time it appears different with canions and more desert look.
Seen plenty of guanacos as usual (this time managed to make photos of their running backs), nandus, birds of pray and more wildlife.

Wednesday, 26/3. In Schlumberger we trust

As a former oil inductry worker, I was very interested of visiting Comodoro Rivadavia. This is why I have chosen not the easiest way to go to Puerto Madryn.
The place where oil was discovered in Patagonia, almost in the middle of the town, and where Petroleum museum is situated whispered: 'Visit me, visit me'. My true blue Schlumberger blood could not resist this call.
The city is big and has lots of fancy shops and coastline, but it is ugly.
Petroleum museum that had such a mediocre feedback in LP is a gem. Its director gave me (as the only visitor) personal tour of the exhibition explaining the history of the oil development at the place.
And yes, there was Schlumberger trucks sponsored by Schlumberger. And oil rigs on the top of the mointains: I could see the pump working.

Thursday, 27/3. Trelew (Town of Lewis in Welsh)
Trelew was founded by Welsh settlers. It is a connecting point for Punto Tumbo, another penguin settlement, and Puerto Madryn. There is Paleontological museum, which I visited, and museum of local modern art, which I ignored.
This is pretty much everything I can say about Trelew.

Friday, 28/3. Welsh bath

I came to Gaiman, small town close to Trelew for 'Welsh tea' and B&B to relax over weekend, catch up with my family and plan my trip further.
I found everything I was looking for: good tea with plenty of cakes (fruit cake!), B&B stay for 2 nights (sooooo out of my budget) and good wi fi.
But most importantly I found this:

My own personal bath! In my own personal bedroom with king size bed! And my own personal bathroom has a lock (luxury here even in public toilets)!!!
I am soooooo happy. Amazing how little people need for happiness sometimes.
And I do not even like to take a bath! But I could not resist this time, although it took ages to fill it in.
I also have been helping picking plums in B&B garden for jam.
Beautiful place to spend a weekend, I believe.

Saturday, 29/3. Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau

I think I am overdosed with scones, Welsh cakes and tea. I rolled out from another tea house today just to find out that I can take away everything I have not eaten. I have eaten everything:

I love this place! I woke up with roosters and had (of course!) frehshly made Welsh cakes and scones and toasts with homemade peach jam and juice and enourmous pot of tea for breakfast. And there are 10 cats in the household. I befriended all of them.
I went for a walk and (of course!) found a lovely (lovely :)) cemetery. The nicest of the cemeteries I have seen in Argentina:

I left cemetery and walked along the river to find farms and gardens and yet another tea house with jame made of watermelon skin:

Everybody speaks Welsh here, Argentinian families with no Welsh ancestors speak Welsh, children learn Welsh just because they want to. Traditions are kept so carefully here, it is sooo cute.
I met a Welsh girl here who is making a film about Welsh heritage in Patagonia. She complains that every old lady she is interviewing tries to feed her with homemade jams and scones. What a disaster!
It is a beautiful place where I would stay to pick up fruits and make jams, but I need to go tomorrow to watch wildlife in Puerto Madryn. It will be sad to leave my little lovely (he, lovely again) room with bath.